First step is to remove the plate and inspect the board, looking for a compression damage du to a crash where the yaw arm actually forces its way onto the board due to impact. In our photo we can see that the plastic plate in the back of the board has no serious sign of impact, so it looks good. Lets inspect the board visually and test the yaw motor.

So the next step is to test the board by installing a good gimbal that I know works normally. What we are looking for is a good gimbal with proper mouvement response to roll and pitch, and a good display on the mobile device. The boards job is to translate the sensors data from the gyro and into the proper response to the articulated gimbal, which in terms if everything works right will give a stable recording correcting roll and pitch movements accordingly.

In the picture below we can see the board apparently undamaged, it’s an advanced model, we can clearly see that by the missing elements on the board. The DJI sticker tells us the board did not sustain any water damage, the white color of the sticker would clearly turn red with water contact. We should test spin the yaw arm motor to make sure its clear of dirt, sand or a debris from a damaged magnet, make a visual inspection during the rotation, look for rough noisy the bearings, they need to operate freely with a normal resistance during rotation. One thing to look for is a bent axel or unleveled magnet wheel. In our case everything still looks normal.

Lets now install our test gimbal and see how the camera board is functioning.

Houston we have an image !!.. The gimbal is correcting yaw and pitch sensor inputs within normal tolerances, the image is fluid, the board is functioning normally. We can now remove our test gimbal and start to replace our damaged parts with new ones.

So now we remove the test gimbal, and start taking apart the damaged gimbal. At first glance I can assume that the stop on the pitch arm snapped of, on the picture we can see the sensor turned all the way back to the roll motor. This is a common failure after a crash and most likelly will requires a new roll arm.

After removing the sensor we can confirm that the pitch stop snapped off. I’ve seen repairs where a small screw was used to replace a broken stop, I feel that is only a temporary solution, the screw at one time or another will most likely fall off.

Theses are the new parts that we will need to replace for this fix.

To keep the cost down, we will reuse the old roll motor after checking it the same way we did for the yaw motor previously, so our next step is to free it from the broken roll arm. It’s not an easy task without the proper tools, I have tried many techniques to achieve that and the one that seemed the cleanest and the fastest was to partly cut the ring of the old arm with a dremel tool, taking special care of not cutting any motor parts right behind it. Partially cutting the ring to a thin layer seems to work well to preserve the plastic motor wheel behind it.

We then use a small screwdriver can then be used to snap off the small remaining aluminum layer of the ring. A small rotation of a flat screwdriver should snap it right off.

After the roll motor is freed you will see some remaining dried glue on the outside of the magnet chromed piece, don’t remove the dried glue just yet, this will give just the extra layer needed for the motor to fit in its new housing without using additional glue. Push the motor into the ring slowly. The fit will be real tight and that will prevent it from slipping. Use the calibration acrylic tool to position the axis of the roll motor properly, this will help later to make sure the horizon is level, hoping to set it in a way where we will not need any further camera horizontal calibration.

One final check on the orientation of our roll axis before reassembly of the roll board.

We can now reassemble the 2 new arms together by screwing the roll motor back to our new yaw arm.

Reshape the ribbon before you actually apply it to the gimbal, I found that pre-shaping it will give a cleaner more factory look and makes it easier to install.

Reassemble the pitch motor and associated board clipping the ribbon snugly and verifying proper insertion.

We then move on to the sensor, take notice the position of the axis has to match the position of the sensor, the flat side with the flat side. It will not work otherwise.

The screw has to be inserted on the flat side of the sensor …

Rolling the ribbon all the back to the sensor position is a bit tricky and takes patience, notice how we pre shaped connector ending, that is very usefull, and will help position it into the sensor clamp without a big headache.

Make sure the ribbon connector is parallel and fully inserted to the white line and clipped in a snuggy manner. A bad connected ribbon with result into a dead, nonreactive gimbal during the testing phase.

One final check on the orientation of our roll axis before reassembly of the roll board.

Done .. Lets reassemble our fixed gimbal on to the camera board and do some testing.

Using a proper layered amount of sticky notes helps us determine whether or not our roll calibration is correct or not. I n our picture we can clearly see the horizon is tilted to the right, a small adjustment of the roll axis will correct that.

Using a small plastic hair clamp to which I broke some of the legs to make it smaller, will helps hold the board to the assembly while making the final adjustments

That looks better, testing time..

Testing gimbal mouvements, testing pitch and roll altogether. The image is stable as it should be.

Hope this helped some of you guys repairing your camera .. I tried to keep it short, I enjoyed doing this ..

Should you need live support you can contact Emon on his facebook page


Cheers…. JogjaSky.



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